After our foray onto the beach, I didn't even take out my phone for its camera when we arrived at the Art Market. Think painted concrete small rooms with no doors. It did have a roof and lots of corridors with hundreds of little shops.
The minute we drove up men were motioning and pointing us where to park. Aggressive is a mild term for the "help" we were given the minute we stepped out of the car. I was looking for Kente fabric as I had heard about this unique hand woven cloth indigenous to Ghana and Togo. Read here for a quick history.
So our guides were looking to see what we wanted and were eager to herd us to certain shops. I have no idea how the Despains figured out which men to choose, but we ended up looking in a little room with hundreds of folded Kente cloth on the shelves and walls of the room. I had a quick lesson on how it was weaved on looms in strips and sewn together. Sister Despain was describing how each pattern meant something. Here is what I found on the Internet about this cloth.
I personally was looking for a length of cloth that I could get for Julia. She is the only one of my daughter in laws with an infant at this time. Of course I still have the problem of getting it back to her. But I have been fascinated how the women take a length of cloth, wrap their baby on their back and walk, dance, and carry on with life, sometimes balancing something on their head too. The smallest infants have a momma who wears another cloth tied around her neck so the infant head is covered on her back.
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The men helped me a little showing how it tucks and let me tie up the bottom, though another lady later showed me how the bottom tucks too. Amazing the effort I went to as a very young mom to make a front pack when just a length of cloth carries a baby on your back.
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| This is the Kente cloth I bought Here is the explanation |
Negotiating is interesting. He asked me to come into his shop to talk about money because everyone else would be listening and giving counter offers. So I stepped in and he wanted about $136 (American) for approximately 3 yards of fabric. Even though it is handwoven that was a little steep for me. I don't feel I am using monopoly money anymore and know more of its value. Elder Despain started talking and took the price down as he and Sister Despain had actually been to the village where they weave the cloth. I still got ripped off in the price but they will eat well today.
We walked to a different shop where Sister Despain was looking at wooden turtles. I told the men with us that I was NOT buying anything there. Colin Powell the man walking by me, said he was waiting patiently so he could show me the painted pictures I had wanted to see. I asked if I went with him if I would get lost and separated from the Despains and he said no, he'd bring me back. I told him I needed a drink of water.
Walking through corridors, I gave Colin Powell one cedi which he handed over to a woman and said I could get two bottles of water with it. I took the one and guzzled it down, so he gave me the other. Always have a native buy your drink as the last time I bought water it was 3 cedi's for one bottle.
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| I ended up with this picture though it didn't jump out and grab my attention. I did want an elephant. |
So I went to Colin Powell's shop and he brought out painting after painting. I would say yes occasionally and he would put it aside and just turn over the others. They were all nice but nothing really jumped out and grabbed my attention, though four of them were nicer. I was really starting to melt so Colin Powell had his friend fan my face with a straw fan - it was very effective if slightly embarrassing.
The negotiating was interesting as I obviously am not a good negotiator. Brother Despain was bold and decisive. He told me on the way home what I should do the next time. But always be prepared to walk away. Next time I will take Brother Despain and hand him my money.
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| Paid way to much, but it does the job very well - can't feel too bad about being ripped off as it will feed someone today |
By that time I had a flood of sweat running down my back and a slight headache. More men wanted us to walk into their shops, I said, "I'm done." A man started fanning me with a large fan as I walked down the corridor (uneven cement bricks and blocks that have broken into potholes) and I told him he was very good and gave him the asking price for his fan still walking toward the car. Luckily the car has great air-conditioning and I recovered quickly.
This adventure was both phun and fun. I told the Despains I'd go with them in a heart beat again.
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