Spontaneous Adventure

 Elder and Sister Despain dropped by our apartment yesterday as we got back from shopping at the Mall. [Yes! Jeffrey went with me to the Mall for a couple of hours - yes it was amazing!] Jeffrey was unlocking the door when they asked if we wanted to go to the Art Market. I said, "Sure!" Jeffrey indicated he had something else to do. He handed me the cash in his pocket and I took off without even going in our door.

The Despains are here to record the emerging story of the Church in West Africa and get the stories of the pioneers. Since 1978 a huge upsurge of members have joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, and the Depains are equipped with cameras, recorders, drones and lots of paper and pens. They record the culture, people, and stories. 

The first place we went was on the beach where the first ports in Accra were located. I got some general far away pictures because I knew we were not exactly welcome on the beach. This is Jamestown Lighthouse.

This is the Jamestown lighthouse -history

We did not tour or run up all the steps and look out over the water

The area is not inviting as it is trash filled and notices on the wall says not to urinate or dump trash here. There is a big sign letting everyone know where the toilets are. Watching out the back passenger window, Elder Despain drove down past the lighthouse up to a guard leaning back on a chair outside of his little hut. Elder Despain told him Happy New Year and indicated he wanted to walk around down on the beach. The guard said, ok. I'm not sure if we were expected to hand him money or not - usually that is the case.

We could see a lot of boats - canoes? - out in the water and pulled up to the beach. Women with ice and items were walking back up the hill and some men were pulling up big nets from the water. We arrived at at the bottom of the hill and Elder Despain decided to drive closer over some land that had recently been smooth out by big machines we could see parked on the side of the cleared area. 

The minute we parked the car and tall man from one of the boats came striding over and saying no we couldn't park there, so Elder Despain says agreeably that we would go park by the taxi that was just outside of the smoothed over area. When we walked closer to the beach another fisherman indicated he was in charge and we couldn't go there. Elder Despain said we had permission from the guards and the man on the beach after which the fisherman took his fish and walked away. I was told that anyone who can get away with being the guide or being the man in charge is paid something for his time. So more than one person always wants to be "in charge".

I do not know if this building is in use, just that it is made of different bricks from different ages. The whole place evidently got a lot of money from a government (US?) to rebuild and repair the old port.

A nice view of the lighthouse as up close is not so inviting

The tall man came striding back over and had a little discussion with Elder Despain who told him he wanted to take pictures of this place that other people would come visit and buy their fish. He told him that they would want to know that they were safe. The tall man said ok and Elder Despain set up his camera

This man doesn't know the meaning of fear and will push all the envelopes he needs to get his story

Sister Despain and I asked the tall man questions so he wouldn't hassle Elder Despain who boldly set up his camera and took pictures of the men, boys, boats, and their work.

This was as close as I dared to go and then only with a phone camera. If you click on it and enlarge it you can see some of the people and a little better view of the boats or canoes as he called them

We found out that the men and boys would go out at night and put a light on the boat. The fish come up and they catch them in nets and bring them back in the early morning. The women come down with ice and big round pan/bowls and haul them to the market. If you want fresh fish come in the morning.  He told us about the boats, their size and how many people could go on them. I can't remember all the questions we asked but it took awhile. He agreeably answered them all. He strolled away to take care of a problem and Sister Despain said that young boys as young as 10 are often kidnapped to work in all kinds of jobs including fishing boats. I had to take another look at the boys - who would know if they were sons, brothers or not?

So Elder Despain got his photos and started to come back. When Sister Despain and I were alone, two other men came up and demanded that we buy their fish. Sister Despain said she never ate fish and I explained I liked salmon. A little disgruntled they left and when Elder Despain put away his equipment he remarked that the tall man would want his fee. I handed him a 5 cedi and sure enough the tall man came striding back to our car and left when he got his money. 

I don't know if the guards expected to be paid or that they were trying to keep people like us out, but on the way back the road had a rope across it that had to be taken down. We didn't pay any money but went to another beach where we just looked out of the window before we drove away. The Depains had already gotten pictures of that place. The people living there with their small shed homes with pigs running down the beach and a horse or two and men pulling nets in from the ocean. It is very interesting to live in a luxury apartment and watch people with no electricity or plumbing living three miles away.

We did make it to the Art Market. Which is a whole different story.